Sports Kite Bridle Adjustments

Basic Layout

This is not intended to cover things like turbo, dynamic,active, cross-active, etc. bridles. For such things, and for more explanation of the "how&why" of sports kite bridles, you should visit Ian Newham's site and Andy Wardley's site. The purpose of this page is merely to tell you what you can expect when you make the most basic bridle adjustments.

Bridle leg adjustments


The diagram above shows a simple 3-point bridle configuration. However, the adjustments listed below also pertain to turbo, etc. bridles. I tend to make my bridles, and modify those on bought kites, so that they are adjusted by pigtails at X and Y on the upper outhauls (u) and the inhauls (i) respectively. This is significantly easier than moving prussik knots (especially on cold days or when they have become wet -- or both!), makes it simple to make exactly the same adjustment on both sides of the kite, makes it easier to return to previous settings, and makes it possible to adjust one leg to compensate for an unwanted effect of adjusting the other. If your bridle adjusts only by shifting the tow-point, then use only the top line of the table (upper outhaul,u).


Adjustments

Shorten

Lengthen

u

  • Faster
  • Less Pull
  • More lift in low winds
  • Spills air in very high winds
  • Larger turning circle (compensate by shortening i)
  • Slower
  • More Pull
  • Easier stalls
  • Tighter turning circle (compensate by lengthening i)

i

  • Tighter turning circle
  • Slower (compensate by shortening u)
  • Less lift in low winds (compensate by shortening u)
  • Larger turning circle
  • Faster (compensate by lengthening u)