Sports Kite Bridle Adjustments
Basic Layout
This is not intended to cover things like turbo, dynamic,active,
cross-active, etc. bridles. For such things, and for more explanation of the "how&why"
of sports kite bridles, you should visit
Ian Newham's
site and Andy
Wardley's site. The purpose of this page is merely to tell you what you can
expect when you make the most basic bridle adjustments.
The diagram above shows a simple 3-point bridle configuration. However, the
adjustments listed below also pertain to turbo, etc. bridles. I tend to make my
bridles, and modify those on bought kites, so that they are adjusted by pigtails
at X and Y on the upper outhauls (u) and the inhauls (i)
respectively. This is significantly easier than moving prussik knots (especially
on cold days or when they have become wet -- or both!), makes it simple to make
exactly the same adjustment on both sides of the kite, makes it easier to return
to previous settings, and makes it possible to adjust one leg to compensate for
an unwanted effect of adjusting the other. If your bridle adjusts only by
shifting the tow-point, then use only the top line of the table (upper outhaul,u).
Adjustments
|
|
|
u |
- Faster
- Less Pull
- More lift in low winds
- Spills air in very high winds
- Larger turning circle (compensate by shortening i)
|
- Slower
- More Pull
- Easier stalls
- Tighter turning circle (compensate by lengthening i)
|
i |
- Tighter turning circle
- Slower (compensate by shortening u)
- Less lift in low winds (compensate by shortening u)
|
- Larger turning circle
- Faster (compensate by lengthening u)
|
© 2004-2006